DIY: Build a Gigging Light that Will Give the Flounder a Sunburn

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DIY High-Output Flounder Gigging Light

This is one of the more involved DIY projects I've tackled, but the result is a professional-grade flounder gigging light that rivals high-end custom versions. By using three independent 50W LED chips and a custom aluminum housing, you get maximum illumination with the ability to manage your power consumption on the fly.

Overview: The Goal

The mission was simple: squeeze massive light output out of a handheld pole while keeping the battery setup light enough to carry in a backpack.

Note: These LEDs generate significant heat and should only be run for extended periods while submerged in water to prevent burnout.

Materials Needed

  • Aluminum Rectangle Tube: 3″ x 1.5″ and 2″ x 1.5″.

  • LED Chips: (3) 50W, 12V LED chips.

  • Power: 12V, 18Ah Battery (capacity depends on desired run time).

  • Wiring/Hardware: 12-2 Marine gauge wire, Quick Silver Thermal Paste, 15amp inline fuse, and Parks/Varathane Super Glaze epoxy.

  • Handle/Junction: 3/4″ SCH40 PVC and a 1″ LL Conduit Enclosure.

Step 1: Miter the Housing Base

The frame consists of three 4″ pieces of the 3″ x 1.5″ aluminum rectangle tube.

  • Scribe and cut a 22.5° miter on each piece.

  • The center piece is mitered on both sides to create a "spread" effect, while the end pieces are cut at 90° on the outward-facing ends.

Step 2: Fabricate LED "Surroundings"

Each chip needs an aluminum border to contain the waterproofing epoxy.

  • The Trick: Use a 1 7/8″ hole saw to cut a circle in your aluminum flat stock.

  • Scribe lines to turn that circle into a square and trim the edges with a jigsaw. This is much cleaner than trying to route a square from scratch.

Step 3: Assemble the Housing

  • Attach Surroundings: Drill and tap holes for 10/32 stainless bolts to secure the borders to the main tubes.

  • Braze/Weld: Use a spool gun or Alumiweld brazing rods with MAP gas to join the three mitered sections into one solid unit.

  • Drill for Wiring: Use a 1" hole saw in the back of the center housing for the main wire run and 3/8" holes for the side light wiring.

Step 4: The PVC Pole and Hinge

  • Cut a 72-inch length of 3/4" PVC and cap the end.

  • Mount the aluminum housing to the PVC using a U-bracket and a 5/16” horizontal bolt to allow for a hinge movement.

  • Drill access holes in the PVC to pass the 12-2 wire through the pipe and into the metal housing.

Step 5: Mount and Wire the LEDs

  1. Thermal Paste: Apply thermal paste to the back of each chip. This is critical for heat transfer to the aluminum heat sink.

  2. Mounting: Drill and tap 4-40 holes to screw the chips directly to the aluminum housing.

  3. Soldering: Run three separate lengths of 12-2 wire from your junction box down to the LEDs. Solder the connections directly to the chips.

Step 6: The Junction Box and Switches

  • Install three independent switches into the conduit enclosure. This allows you to run 1, 2, or all 3 lights at once to save battery.

  • Grounding: Daisy-chain the grounds or use a 5-port Wago connector to keep the box organized.

  • Fuse: Install a 12ga, 15amp inline fuse on the hot side before connecting to the battery.

Step 7: Waterproofing (The Epoxy Pour)

This step makes the light "ocean-proof."

  1. Position the light so one chip cavity is perfectly level.

  2. Pour the Super Glaze epoxy over the chip until the cavity is full.

  3. Use a heat gun to quickly pop any air bubbles.

  4. Wait for it to cure before rotating the light to pour the next angled section.

Retrospective: What I’d Change

  • Wiring Space: 3/4" PVC is a very tight squeeze for 12ga wire; 1" pipe would be much easier to work with.

  • Welding: If you have access to a spool gun, welding the housing is much faster than brazing.

  • Surround Thickness: I’d use slightly thicker flat stock for the surroundings to ensure the wire connections are completely submerged in the epoxy.

Wrapping Up

Once assembled, you have a high-output, waterproof gigging light that puts out incredible lumens. Keep the battery in your backpack, the pole in your hand, and you’re ready to hit the flats!

Check out the DIY Flounder Gig build here!