
DIY: Build a Gigging Light that Will Give the Flounder a Sunburn

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DIY High-Output Flounder Gigging Light
This is one of the more involved DIY projects I've tackled, but the result is a professional-grade flounder gigging light that rivals high-end custom versions. By using three independent 50W LED chips and a custom aluminum housing, you get maximum illumination with the ability to manage your power consumption on the fly.
Overview: The Goal
The mission was simple: squeeze massive light output out of a handheld pole while keeping the battery setup light enough to carry in a backpack.
Note: These LEDs generate significant heat and should only be run for extended periods while submerged in water to prevent burnout.
Materials Needed
Aluminum Rectangle Tube: 3″ x 1.5″ and 2″ x 1.5″.
LED Chips: (3) 50W, 12V LED chips.
Power: 12V, 18Ah Battery (capacity depends on desired run time).
Wiring/Hardware: 12-2 Marine gauge wire, Quick Silver Thermal Paste, 15amp inline fuse, and Parks/Varathane Super Glaze epoxy.
Handle/Junction: 3/4″ SCH40 PVC and a 1″ LL Conduit Enclosure.
Step 1: Miter the Housing Base
The frame consists of three 4″ pieces of the 3″ x 1.5″ aluminum rectangle tube.
Scribe and cut a 22.5° miter on each piece.
The center piece is mitered on both sides to create a "spread" effect, while the end pieces are cut at 90° on the outward-facing ends.
Step 2: Fabricate LED "Surroundings"
Each chip needs an aluminum border to contain the waterproofing epoxy.
The Trick: Use a 1 7/8″ hole saw to cut a circle in your aluminum flat stock.
Scribe lines to turn that circle into a square and trim the edges with a jigsaw. This is much cleaner than trying to route a square from scratch.
Step 3: Assemble the Housing
Attach Surroundings: Drill and tap holes for 10/32 stainless bolts to secure the borders to the main tubes.
Braze/Weld: Use a spool gun or Alumiweld brazing rods with MAP gas to join the three mitered sections into one solid unit.
Drill for Wiring: Use a 1" hole saw in the back of the center housing for the main wire run and 3/8" holes for the side light wiring.
Step 4: The PVC Pole and Hinge
Cut a 72-inch length of 3/4" PVC and cap the end.
Mount the aluminum housing to the PVC using a U-bracket and a 5/16” horizontal bolt to allow for a hinge movement.
Drill access holes in the PVC to pass the 12-2 wire through the pipe and into the metal housing.
Step 5: Mount and Wire the LEDs
Thermal Paste: Apply thermal paste to the back of each chip. This is critical for heat transfer to the aluminum heat sink.
Mounting: Drill and tap 4-40 holes to screw the chips directly to the aluminum housing.
Soldering: Run three separate lengths of 12-2 wire from your junction box down to the LEDs. Solder the connections directly to the chips.
Step 6: The Junction Box and Switches
Install three independent switches into the conduit enclosure. This allows you to run 1, 2, or all 3 lights at once to save battery.
Grounding: Daisy-chain the grounds or use a 5-port Wago connector to keep the box organized.
Fuse: Install a 12ga, 15amp inline fuse on the hot side before connecting to the battery.
Step 7: Waterproofing (The Epoxy Pour)
This step makes the light "ocean-proof."
Position the light so one chip cavity is perfectly level.
Pour the Super Glaze epoxy over the chip until the cavity is full.
Use a heat gun to quickly pop any air bubbles.
Wait for it to cure before rotating the light to pour the next angled section.
Retrospective: What I’d Change
Wiring Space: 3/4" PVC is a very tight squeeze for 12ga wire; 1" pipe would be much easier to work with.
Welding: If you have access to a spool gun, welding the housing is much faster than brazing.
Surround Thickness: I’d use slightly thicker flat stock for the surroundings to ensure the wire connections are completely submerged in the epoxy.
Wrapping Up
Once assembled, you have a high-output, waterproof gigging light that puts out incredible lumens. Keep the battery in your backpack, the pole in your hand, and you’re ready to hit the flats!
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